The Retinyl Palmitate encapsulated in our VEGAN DDS system is protected from degradation or oxidation and delivered into the deepest layers of the epidermis with an efficiency 20 times greater (> 2000 %) than the free active.
In addition, our VEGAN DDS system has all the benefits of our Deep Delivery System and it is formulated using 100% Vegan-Friendly and free from animal origin ingredients.
ACTIVE INGREDIENT PROPERTIES
- Stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
- Acts as an antioxidant and cell regenerator.
- Minimises pore size and prevents hyperkeratinisation.
- Regulates the production of sebum.
- Represses melanogenesis.
BENEFITS OF THE ENCAPSULATION DDS
- Protects the retinyl palmitate against degradation.
- Maximum delivery of the active ingredient to the deep skin levels.
- Multiplies efficiency without exceeding the SCCS recommended dosage.
- Gradual delivery for longer lasting effect.
- Increases the bioavailability of the active ingredient.
- Allows the formulation of retinyl palmitate in aqueous bases.
- Avoids colour changes in the cosmetic product.
EFFICAY TEST
For the purposes of imitating skin aging, a cocktail of corticoids was added to the skin culture medium (human skin explants of 0.8cm²). At the same time, the products under study (Retinyl palmitate in free form and in encapsulated form in the DDS and VeganDDS by INdermal systems) were then applied topically for a period of seven non-consecutive days (four initial consecutive days, followed by two days without application and a final further three consecutive days) at the same concentration level.
Experimental groups involved in the study:
- Healthy control: Untreated skin explant.
- Aged skin: Skin explant treated with hydrocortisone for a period of 5 days.
- Aged skin + Free Retinyl palmitate: Sample with free Retinyl palmitate applied to aged explants.
- Aged skin + DDS-Retinol: Sample with Retinyl palmitate encapsulated in the DDS by INdermal system applied to aged explants.
- Aged skin + VeganDDS-Retinol: Sample with Retinyl palmitate encapsulated in the Vegan DDS by INdermal system applied to aged explants.
COLLAGEN TEST ANALYSIS
The soluble collagen content was calculated using a soluble collagen assay kit by Biocolor Limited (Carrickfergus, UK). The collagen test is a dye binding method for the purpose of analysing soluble collagens in acid and pepsin. The test can evaluate the amount of recently synthesised collagen produced during rapid periods of growth and development. The values are expressed in μg / mg of hOSEC.
The skin explants treated with corticoids revealed a clear reduction in soluble collagen content compared to the non-treated controls. Treatment of the skin aged with the test products produced a significant increase in soluble collagen levels compared to the aged skins in the Vegan DDS-Retinol and DDS-Retinol experimental groups.
ELLASTIN TEST
The elastin test is a quantitative dye binding method used to analyse elastin extracted from mammal sources. The dye marker utilised is 5, 10, 15, 20-tetraphenyl-21H, 23H-porphine tetra-sulfonate (TPPS). The results of the elastin content test (micrograms) were calculated per milligram of fresh skin tissue.
The results show that Vegan DDS-Retinol and DDS-Retinol generatE new elastin. The results obtained from the aged group show that both products could generate a restructuring of the skin tissue in stressed skin explants under test conditions.
CONCLUSIONS
- At equal concentration levels of Retinyl palmitate, the DDS-Retinol and Vegan DDS-Retinol products are much more effective than Retinyl palmitate in free form, recovering the amount of lost collagen and elastin to levels similar to those found in natural skin before undergoing aging.
- Vegan DDS-Retinol product act immediately as evidenced after eleven days by a large recovery (98% average) of the elastin and collagen lost through the enforced aging process whilst the free active ingredient would need a much longer application period.
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